FORMULATION OF AN ANTIOXIDANT HYDROGEL FACE MASK USING AN ORGANIC, SUSTAINABLY SOURCED, STANDARDISED WATER EXTRACT OF YERBA MATE (ILEX PARAGUARIENSIS) AS ACTIVE INGREDIENT.

Abstract

Background: The use of natural products in cosmetics has become increasingly popular in recent years. One such natural product that has shown promise as a cosmetic ingredient is Ilex paraguariensis, also known as yerba mate.

Aim: to formulate an antioxidant hydrogel face mask using an organic, sustainably sourced, standardised water extract of yerba mate (Ilex paraguariensis) as active ingredient.

Methods: Organic yerba mate was water-extracted at 40°C and 80°C. Theobromine, theophylline, caffeine, and various phenolic acids were quantified using RP-HPLC-UV analysis. Extracts were then evaluated for antioxidant activity (DPPH assay). A commercially available mask-making machines for home use was used to produce hydrogel masks based on marine collagen and these were analysed for active ingredient distribution (homogeneity).

Results: The differences between 40°C and 80°C water extracts of yerba mate. The content in phytochemicals ranged 0.02-1 mg/ml. The extract equivalence in chlorogenic acid (CA) according to the DPPH assay was 0.25 mg_CA / mg_extract. The hydrogel facial mask was successfully formulated with 0.1 mg/mL of standardised yerba mate extract. The content in phytochemicals within the gel varied most for caffeic acid and theobromine (approx. 20%) but was <10% for theophylline, caffeine, chlorogenic acid, ferulic acid, rutin, quercitrin, and quercetin.

Conclusion: Face masks “home” machines can deliver hydrogel face masks based on marine collagen can incorporate yerba mate (Ilex paraguariensis) water extracts as active ingredient without detriment of the consistency, texture and sensory characteristics with relatively homogenous concentrations of the active principles.